Assembly & Setup

Your machine arrives about 90 percent assembled. Here is the other 10 percent.

Nobody tells you this part clearly, so we will. Powersports machines ship in a crate, partially assembled, and there is real work left when it hits your driveway. It is not hard work and you do not need to be a mechanic, but you should know what you are signing up for before the truck shows up.

Budget one to two hours for most machines. The mini jeep, which arrives with the roll cage and seats to install, can run closer to three.

What is usually left to do

  • Mount the front wheels
  • Install and align the handlebars
  • Install and connect the battery
  • Install mirrors, windshield or roll cage hardware where applicable
  • Fill and check engine oil
  • Add fuel
  • Check and adjust tire pressure
  • Adjust brakes and throttle cable
  • Adjust the chain tension
  • Set the throttle limiter where you want it, on the youth machines that have one

Every crate includes the manufacturer's manual with the exact sequence for your model.

Tools you will want on hand

Metric socket set, metric wrenches, Phillips and flathead screwdrivers, needle nose pliers, a torque wrench, a tire pressure gauge, a small funnel, and a battery tender or trickle charger. That is the whole list.

Fluids and fuel

Most Coolster machines ship dry or with just enough oil to protect the engine in transit. Do not skip this step and do not guess.

  • Engine oil: check your manual for the specified weight, usually 10W-40 four stroke motorcycle oil. Fill to the mark on the dipstick, not past it.
  • Fuel: fresh 87 octane unleaded. No E85, no old gas out of the can in the shed.
  • Battery: charge it fully before the first start. A partly charged battery is the number one reason a brand new machine "will not start."

The pre ride checklist, every single time

Teach this to your rider and make it a ritual. It takes ninety seconds.

  1. Tires: pressure correct, no cuts or bulges
  2. Brakes: both levers firm, machine actually stops
  3. Throttle: snaps closed on its own when released
  4. Chain: correct tension, oiled
  5. Oil: at the right level
  6. Fuel: enough for the ride
  7. Lights: headlight, taillight, brake light
  8. Kill switch and tether: test them before the ride, not during
  9. Bolts: wheels and handlebars still torqued
  10. Gear: helmet, eye protection, gloves, boots, long sleeves

The first 20 hours matter

New engines need a break in period. For roughly the first 20 hours or 300 miles: vary your speed, stay off wide open throttle, do not tow or haul heavy loads, and change the oil at the interval your manual specifies. That first oil change pulls out the metal shavings every new engine makes. Skip it and you will pay for it later.

Also, go back around after the first two or three rides and re torque everything. New machines settle and bolts loosen. This is normal, on every brand in this class, and it is the number one complaint from people who did not do it.

If you would rather not do it yourself

Totally reasonable. Any local powersports shop, motorcycle shop or small engine shop can do the final assembly and pre delivery inspection, usually in under an hour, typically for somewhere between 100 and 200 dollars. Call ahead and ask if they will do a PDI on a customer supplied unit. Many will, some will not, so ask before the crate arrives.

Stuck

Email help@blueskypowersports.com with your model and a photo of what you are looking at. We have put these together ourselves and we are happy to walk you through it.